Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel.

The trip down to Puerto Escondido was a relatively easy overnight jaunt. We liked the combination of Mexican town with tourist area, surfing, great beach and of course an easy dinghy landing is always a plus in my book. The central market was teaming with people, produce and colors; I took lots of pictures, sometimes I get strange looks when I zero in on big baskets of chilies or the head of a pig (most butchers have a good sense of humor). Reviewing my photos, I notice I’ve taken several pig head pics, I guess the look on their faces may say something about their fate. The central markets is one of my favorite places to watch people and take pictures. We stayed a few days, long enough to play on the beach and find a favorite taco stand then say good-bye.

Our next anchorage is Puerto Angel. The guide books say you can tuck in close in behind the rocks but we just couldn’t find the sweet spot for good holding. We put the anchor down once but brought it up again when we saw a group of kids swimming out to the boat. Once they get to the boat, they usually want to get aboard to dive off and that can go on for a while. So we just moved out of their reach and spent the night, leaving early the next day heading for Huatulco.

Further South in Mexico

Leaving Santiago, saying goodbye to our cruising buddies, we head south solo. We had a nice day sail to Cabeza Negra spent the night but didn’t go to shore. After breakfast we head for Caleta de Campos. It’s a nice small beach town of a few thousand people, with a school of Navigation and Fishing located there. We had the best barbacoa tacos there then took a taxi down the road some to Rio Nexpa. Nexpa is a surfing haven, the beach dotted with cabanas that cost about 150 pesos a night ($12 US). There were some folks surfing but the big surf that draws surfers here from near and far happen during the summer. Nice very laid back place, out of the way but definitely a favorite for young surfers. Once back to our dinghy in Caleta de Campos I discover my shoes are missing that I left in the dinghy. This is the very first time I’ve had anything stolen, I spent a little time on the beach checking out feet by I didn’t see my Sebagos on anyone’s tootsies.

Zihuatanejo

We did a 12 hour sail to Zihuatanejo, bypassed Ixtapa for now. There are about 25 boats in front of Playa Madera with a daily net each morning keeping us abreast of what’s happening locally. I think this will be the last local net via VHF radio we’ll come across in Mexico. I here that there are fewer boats here this year and there’s some concern that there won’t be enough boats for Sail Fest. Sail fest is a fun event put on by cruisers, raising funds for the indigenous school in the mountains. The boats sign up to take tourist out for a day sail. The tourists are charged something like 300 pesos, and that money goes to the schools.

I really like Zihuat; it’s a perfect blend of a Mexican seaside town with just enough cruisers and tourists thrown into the mix. We walk way up into town, finding rubber feet for the swim ladder as well as a bead shop. Of course I found a few things that I just had to have, sounds familiar? I got in a lot of jogging and early morning walks. On one particular walk on the hill side between Playa Madera and Playa La Ropa I stopped at an Italian restaurant, it had such a beautiful view I just had to stop. I sat at very corner table, enjoying a cold beer, amazed by the beauty of the bay below. That is where I fell in love with Zihuatanejo

Sailfisher

Thought you might like to see what it's like on a good sailing day.

more pics

This puppy looks so embryonic.






Here's a few pics from Guadalajara, the Cathedral, the central market, some day of the dead folks as well. We spent a couple of days in this beautiful colonial styled old city.

New Memories in Santiago

We stayed between Santiago and Las Hadas for about 10 days. A couple of days enjoying the convenience and amenities of Las Hadas then the rest of the time anchored out in front of "La Casa de las Palomas", (where we were married last year).
We had a wonderful time with Joyce & Jess, the owners, Susan & Duke, their long time friends, and of course Lou and Lydia. It turns out that Duke and Lou, each from different parts of the country, attended grad school together way back when at Cornell; so this was an unexpected reunion for them. Rumor has it that at least one of them used to sport a mighty fine afro.
We took a day trip to Las Grutas (the caves); an interesting place, big deep cavern with huge stalactites. It was a fun outing, eating cheese and drinking beer at the picnic tables once we had climbed out of the cave. I again managed to miss a step and hurt my other foot; I think I will follow Lou's suggestion to wear closed toed shoes instead of sandals.
Having a car gave us more opportunities for exploring and we were off on another road trip. We road in Lydia's element and we all got a turn at the "wild ride", that is sitting in the make shift back seats that aren't attached, you get to slide around alot. Anyway...the 8 of us took a day trip to first Comala and then Colima. We visited the museum in Comala then had some beer and free snacks (botanas) at the town square, while being entertained by several mariachi bands competing with their loudest offerings.
The Casa de las Palomas folks went back to Santiago but we drove on to Sayula, a town famous for their fines knives and their 12 Portolas. After a visit to a few shops, Lou came away with an entire flatware set, a kitchen knife set, a belt with a hidden knife buckle and 2 other decorative knives. We bought a lone sharpener. We stayed the night in a 4 star hotel, really nice. Once a colonial hacienda, then for many years a grain storage facility and then in 2001 converted and refurbished as this hotel "Casa de los Patios". We had nice dinners then we all retired to our rooms to watch TV, a rare but dubious treat.
By about 2 the next day we were back on the road, not without a few stops along the way. The boys had an "Auto Zone" stop and lyd and I a stop at a furniture & metal yard art place. I took heaps of pictures but we left empty handed, everything was just too big for the "Element" and the metal stuff would die a rusty death on the boats.
We got back just in time to enjoy a farewell dinner for Susan and Duke, complete with a live and surprise Mariachi musicians ( 7 to be exact). Jess had it all planned, he stepped out the front door saying he had to get a CD from his car, only to come back in followed by the beautifully dressed musicians. What a treat....thank you again Jess and Joyce. The music was all requested via my translation. That is a night I'll remember for a very long time.
The next night we enjoyed happy hour at an amazing cliff location restaurant "L'Recif. The view on this cliff sheltered bay to the ocean was amazing. Another one of those times the beauty far exceeds my pale words. Lydian and I cooked dinner that night, made more interesting with a couple of "Cuba Libres". Yesterday a last trip to the town of Santiago proved to be very successful. Al replaced the inner tube for the dinghy tire and got a haircut from Esmelda, the same lady that did my hair for the wedding last year.
Joyce and Jess were the most attentive, gracious hosts, especially gracious towards us, we were basically just an add-on to the group via Lou and Lydia. We left Santiago with new friends and also having had an unexpected opportunity to spend some good times with our old friends.

We've continued to head south, revisiting a few fav places including Tenacatita. I got to play in the kayak plenty; one afternoon I stopped by Shiloh, Lou fixed me a drink and by the time I left I was pretty lit. We stayed on a day or two longer than Lou and Lydia but we'll meet up again in a few days in Santiago. We met the folks on "Endeavour", accompanied them up the river in our dinghies but not before having a very wet landing on the beach. It seems we never get away from Tenacatita without a thorough soaking and of course loss of hats and/or sunglasses. We also met some folks on a Cal 36,, Annie and Tom. She did some really lovely watercolors, a visual log of all the beautiful anchorages they have dropped the hook at. I would love to be able to paint like that, if I could I probably would have started on my 2009 resolution to do drawings this year, who knows maybe I'll start next month. I continue with my beading; currently working on a bangle bracelet and the more I work on it the less I like it.

SOME OF THIS AND THAT

Our cruising season began with our arrival in La Paz on 2nd of November, staying first at Marina Palmira, and then moving over to Marina de La Paz. Marina de La Paz is walking distance to the center of town and there’s always more socializing happening here as well, so I prefer it. We had a date to meet up with Rich and Sherry, of Tabu, at Isla Partida. It’s a beautiful cove, with clear aqua colored water that is sea foam green near the shore; it’s still one of my favorite spots. This is where we first launched my new beautiful lime green kayak. It’s the best toy and I really love tooling around in it all under my own power. We spent a few days including a day outing to the “Rookery”, there were many frigates on the guano covered rocks and sea lions swimming around. Some people were swimming with the sea lions but I was happy to be amongst them in my kayak. We have been revisiting some of last season’s places. The water has been warmer so we’ve been able to be in the water more. There are fewer cruisers this year, (another economic indicator) but we’ve come across old friends from last year and made some new ones as well.
We had plans to be in Zihuatanejo by Christmas but ended up sticking around the Puerto Vallarta area from Thanksgiving all the way through Christmas but by New Years’ we were anchored in Chamela, having lobster tails and doing tequila research with our good buds, Lou and Lydia. A nice beginning to the New Year.
Somehow we got a flat tire on the dinghy; Al took it apart to find that the entire valve stem was missing. So we managed to drag the dinghy onto to the beach with only one wheel and set out to see about getting the tire fixed. The one llantero (tire guy) couldn’t help and sent us to the one ferreteria (hardware store) in town. We weren’t having much luck there either until this Canadian man came in and asked Al if that a was a dinghy tire… anyway turns out he thought he had one just like it at home. In a few minutes he was back and Al was grinning from ear to ear. He’d just found an exact replacement…how unlikely is that. A lucky encounter in Chamela for sure.
We also came across a big house for sale, one block up from the beach. The four of use were invited in by the owner Elizabeth, a nice woman from Sarasota Florida. Nice place but we’re definitely not ready to be land based yet so we pull up the anchor and continue to head south.

Big News Came with Santa

Happy Holidays to one and all.

It’s time for an update and I will make it in real time because there are real time things to say today. My dear darling daughter, Karlene, was surprised by Thaddeus on Christmas morning with a proposal and an engagement ring. She is thrilled and excited, as we all are. I’m so happy for the both of them and can’t wait to put my two cents in about their upcoming wedding. (just kidding Karlene).

We're still in Puerto Vallarta, having stayed much longer then we had planned because of me having sprained my foot. Of course Puerto Vallarta isn't a bad place to get stuck at. We have enjoyed our stay here, this our 3rd time here.

On Christmas we had a great time at a potluck out in Mezcales, with about 20 folks from different boats who are all docked in Nuevo Vallarta marina. We all got to play a few rounds of a game that's a cross between tennis and golf. I didn't do too badly, even playing with a handicap... it just might be my sport.

The food was good and plentiful, turkey, mashed potatoes and all the fixings.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN WITH UNCLE AL

You may have noticed there’s not much mention of Al over the summer, the reason is that he was on his own adventure while I was in Florida. In total Al drove about 7000 miles this past summer. The first trip we did together to Colorado and back to SoCal. Al then drove back to Colorado to stay at the Flying Horse Ranch to try his hand at living on a ranch, haying and even learning how to drive a tractor. He had a good time with Lou and Lydia, I think he may even have gone to a barn dance or two. Thanks to Lou and Lydia for taking good care of Al.

After a month on the ranch Al drove back to SoCal and fell into his rhythm there, visiting friends, playing with his motorcycle and Monday night dinners with boating friends in Newport Beach. Monday night dinners has been a ritual with this great group of people for eons; they meet at a tiny sort of coffee house, called “Alta”, the food is simply sandwiches and salads but the true appeal is that they are allowed to byob. Needless to say the wine flows in abundance and Al come armed his six pack of Haake Beck non-alcohol beer.

Speaking of Al’s n-a beer. My mom asked me, “Yevette, when Al drinks that make believe beer does he get make believe drunk?” Anyway… back to Al’s travels. After A few weeks in SoCal he took off to Lake Tahoe. Remember Ronan? No worries if you don’t, Ronan is the dog who lives at the house that we house sat for last year. This year Al went solo, just he and Ronan for about a month. I bet it wasn’t as much fun without me, at least that’s what I think. Next road trip was planned for La Paz, where we left the boat for the summer. Al’s friend Jim was a good sport and volunteered to go on the 2000 mile wild ride down to Baja and back all within a week. Al had the truck loaded up with boat parts, a new dinghy, davits for the new dinghy, and the best part was my new lime green kayak. I love my new kayak, thank you Al. Many thanks to Jim for accompanying Al on the long ride South of the Border. Upon returning Al had just enough time to pack a bag and get on a plane to Orlando to join me and to bring me back to SoCal It was a happy reunion for us; we got to do some fun things in the short time he was there. According to Al his favorite moment was when he whooped little Yevette (my 11 year old niece) at driving go-carts. He’s such a guy…..